Unlike the Star Wars version, this massive structure levitates out of a vast plain and even seems to dominate the mountains in the distance, like a bricked-out Mongol tent in the middle of Persia that even Luke Skywalker might have trouble with. Twenty-five meters of solid domed brick crown the immense Oljaytu Mausoleum, whose construction…
The book and ensuing film might have brought the name Persepolis back into vogue, but this place was already rocking when Alexander the Great came a knockin’ then burnt it down in the ensuing bacchanal. Superlatives don’t do what remains justice and if ancient ruins are your thing, then this is your Mecca. History lessons come to…
Call it hookah, sheesha, round these parts qaylan, but this is the way to meet and greet in Isfahan (Esfahan). Just above the entrance to the bazaar, climb up the incredibly steep stairs to the Qeysaieh Tea Shop. From this open air teahouse enjoy some orange flavored tobacco and get a magnificent view of the…
I usually get various reactions from editors when I send them submissions about traveling in Iran. They usually range from complete silence to cheeky replies regarding the sanity of those who travel in such places. So it was with great surprise that I got an email the other day from Trazzler asking me to write…